Finishes (Oil and Cold Wax Medium)
Why put a finish on your woodburning art? Some pyrography artists prefer not to apply a finish on their artwork. Once a finish or even colour has been applied to a woodburning project, you can’t woodburn over it. Woodburning over a finish or colour can release toxic fumes. It could also damage your wire tip.
With an unfinished woodburning project, an artist or art restorer can touch it up with a pyrography tool. Wood can even be sanded and woodburned again. Not all types of wood, however, are safe to woodburn on. Read my blog on wood canvases and sources to find out what not to woodburn on and what types of wood are best for woodburning.
There are good reasons to apply a finish to a woodburning project. Many pyrography artists apply a finish on their artwork to protect it from moisture, fading and warping.
Changes in humidity can cause wood to warp, and ultraviolet rays will cause pyrography marks to fade over time. Woodburned marks will fade more quickly in direct sunlight. Suffice it to say that pyrography art is best displayed in an indoor setting and away from direct sunlight.
I initially didn’t put any finish on my pyrography art. My focus was on developing my woodburning skills, and I had very little knowledge of finishes. When I started to design and produce pyrography products that I planned to sell, I began to explore options to preserve them. Before choosing one finish over another, determine what your woodburning product will be used for.
I reviewed what other pyrography artists were using to finish their pyrography art and researched the options for preserving woodburning products according to their end use. For example, you need to use a food-safe finish on products that will be in contact with food: wooden spoon, charcuterie board or cutting board.
Oil wood finishes (walnut, tung, Danish and linseed)
For coasters or serving trays, for example, a water-resistant finish is needed to protect the wood from moisture and spills. Some of the most commonly used finishes for these types of products include walnut oil, tung oil, Danish oil and linseed oil.
Depending on the theme of my design, I’ll use either 100% pure tung oil or 100% pure walnut oil. Both of these oils are non-toxic, water-resistant and matte finishes. The walnut oil gives a slightly warmer hue to the birch coasters. If I envision an antique glow for a nautical theme, for example, I’ll use walnut oil. Tung oil is more neutral in tone. The hue of any oil once cured can vary depending on the lightness or darkness of the wood. In general, an oil finish will slightly darken the wood while enhancing the wood grain.
Walnut oil is a non-toxic finish derived from walnuts. I like the delicate, sweet fragrance that lingers on the wood. Given this oil is extracted from walnuts, people with nut allergies should avoid products that are finished with walnut oil.
Tung oil is also non-toxic. It’s made from the seeds within the nut of the tung tree, cultivated in China and South America. Tung oil was used in China to preserve wooden boats. My supplier in Canada for the tung and walnut oils is Lee Valley.
Danish oil refers to a finish that was used on Scandinavian furniture. The product is typically a blend of different oils, such as linseed or tung oil, combined with synthetic resins. I recommend that you find out what ingredients are being used before purchasing any wood finish. The ingredients may vary from one manufacturer to another, as is the case with Danish oil.
I experimented with the Tried & True Danish oil made from pure polymerized linseed oil, a non-toxic finish. It tinted the birch coaster with a light honey hue. The scent of this Danish oil on application is pronounced, requiring ventilation.
Other than the hue of an oil finish, you may want to determine if the product is non-toxic and easy to apply. Other factors to consider in choosing one finish over another can be the drying time, availability, cost and personal preference.
How to apply the oil finish
I apply six coats of oil to the front and back of the birch coasters, letting each coat to cure for at least 48 hours. I use a lint-free cloth to apply the oil. I dip a small area of the cloth in the oil and spread the oil on the surface, letting the wood absorb the oil. After 30 to 45 minutes, I remove any excess oil from the surface and let it cure for at least 48 hours before applying the next coat.
Cold wax medium
I use a different finish for the aspen wall hooks, aspen tealight candle holders and basswood picture frames. I use a cold wax medium — it’s an archival, non-yellowing and water-resistant finish. It dries to a matte finish. For a satin finish, the wax can be buffed with a soft cloth after it has cured for 48 hours. Cold wax medium can be used over watercolour, a medium that I use to add colour to my pyrography art.
How to apply the cold wax medium
I first warm the tin of cold wax medium in the sink with hot tap water for 30 to 45 minutes to soften the wax. It’s easier to apply a thin layer when the wax is warm. I use a lint-free cloth and apply a small amount on the wood canvas, spreading it thinly in circular motions. I apply two coats of the cold wax medium, allowing the finish to cure 48 hours after each application.
The cold wax medium that I use is a Gamblin product, made in Portland, Oregon. This medium is also used for other purposes by professional artists, including for cold wax painting. The cold wax medium is a mixture of natural beeswax, Gamsol and alkyd resin.
I experimented with cold wax medium on a birch coaster that I had woodburned. When I placed a hot cup of coffee on the coaster, it softened the finish and left a faint rim mark. That’s when I started to experiment with 100% pure walnut oil, 100% pure tung oil and Danish oil (pure polymerized linseed oil).
If you are interested in sealing your pyrography project with resin, check out my blog on resin for artists and artisans.
Enjoy your woodburning art for years to come!
